Riads in Marrakesh

There are endless places to lay your head in Marrakesh, from lavish palace-style hotels to rustic farmhouses just beyond the city walls. But for me, nothing beats the charm of a riad.

Riads are the soul of Marrakesh: peaceful, artful sanctuaries tucked behind discreet doors. Each one tells a story, often shaped by the vision of iconic designers.

During my trips to Marrakesh, I have visited some magical hideaways.

El Fenn – A Paradise in the Pulse of the Medina

Of all the riads I discovered in Marrakesh, El Fenn was one of my favourites. It’s more than just a beautiful riad; it’s a designer retreat tucked right into the beating heart of the Medina.

Conceived by Vanessa Branson and Howell James, this once modest property has blossomed into a sprawling sanctuary of thirteen interconnected courtyards and 41 rooms. Its rooftop, a vast, 1,300-square-metre stage for sunsets and spritzes, hums with effortless glamour as it overlooks the Medina.

You can enter El Fenn through a boutique brimming with one-of-a-kind finds. From funkily decorated olive oil bottles and vases to lamps, t-shirts, and cushions, I was sorely tempted to take half the store home.

Climbing the staircase to the roof, you are greeted by welcoming staff in cardinal red uniforms and straw El Fenn hats. The hotel feels like stepping into a magazine editorial. Comfortable seating adorned with bold stripes and blooming florals invites lounging. A king-size bed, overlooking the Medina is perfect for sipping a cocktail and watching the sun dip below the horizon.

Downstairs, the vibe shifts completely. Jewel-toned velvets, earthy hues, and bursts of fuchsia-pink textiles create a mood of opulence and discretion, a striking contrast to the bold, designer beach club feel above.

What struck me most was the gentle birdsong echoing through the leafy branches of the courtyard. It felt like I had stumbled into a private Eden. The Medina buzzed beyond the walls, but the space here is pure serenity.

Riad Izza – an Art Lover’s Dream

Tucked away in the labyrinthine heart of Marrakesh, Riad Izza is more than just a place to rest; it’s a living tribute to one of the city’s most audacious visionary: Bill Willis. Arriving in Morocco in 1965, Willis didn’t simply design spaces; he sculpted the aesthetic of a generation. His bold, unapologetic fusion of Moroccan opulence and modernist swagger still reverberates through the city’s creative veins.

Riad Izza channels his spirit. Its 14 rooms are more than accommodations, they’re galleries, each cradling a slice of a £5 million collection featuring over 300 works of art. For lovers of the avant-garde, it also boasts one of the world’s largest physical exhibitions of printed NFTs: a provocative blend of heritage and the digital frontier.

At the heart of the Riad lies the Bill Bar, a sultry little nook that pays homage to Willis himself. Here, you’ll find snapshots and relics from his whirlwind life among cultural icons; think Grace Jones, Mick Jagger, and Yves Saint Laurent. It’s a portal to a past both glamorous and untamed, where design defied boundaries and style answered to no one.

While wandering the hotel, I was drawn to several works by Hassan Hajjaj. I discovered he’s a local artist, which prompted me to visit his gallery, which you can read about in my guide to Marrakesh.

We dined at the rooftop terrace restaurant. For starter, whipped feta topped with sundried tomatoes, pine nuts, and a drizzle of basil sauce, paired with slices of thin, toasted bread to scoop up the flavours. Prawn croquettes bathed in rich hollandaise followed. For the main course: a traditional tagine accompanied by mini jacket potatoes, double-roasted and dressed in pesto.

L’Hotel Marrakesh – A Whisper of Elegance

Behind a bold green door nestled in the Medina’s labyrinthine alleys lies an oasis: L’Hôtel Marrakesh. Designed and owned by Jasper Conran, this Riad murmurs timeless charm, artisanal beauty, and understated refinement.

Though framed by crumbling surroundings, step beyond its threshold and a haven of quiet luxury greets you. With just six suites, each named after a Moroccan city, it offers intimacy and attention to detail in every aspect. What struck me most wasn’t just the beauty, but the peace. The kind that wraps around you softly, like a silk scarf at dusk.

For a riad deeply embedded in Marrakesh’s heartbeat, its stillness is astonishing. As I sat with a drink and let the ambience settle, I heard only the gentle trill of a Bulbul, the occasional cockerel crow, and the hushed steps of staff gliding past.

Conran’s touch is evident everywhere, with antique textiles, sculptural light fixtures, and curated art that evoke echoes of Bill Willis and Yves Saint Laurent. The courtyard garden pulses with life; a towering palm anchors the space, while banana, lemon, and orange trees unfurl around a fountain adorned with intricate zellige. A petite pool beckons nearby, complete with towels and robes laid out, anticipating your arrival. You may also meet the resident tortoise, a slow-moving companion who is part of the family.

There’s a charming indoor dining area, but I opted for the rooftop garden to bask in a streak of sunshine in the overcast skies. Expecting casual poolside, I was met with a single table dressed in crisp white linen beneath a pergola festooned with brilliant Bougainvillaea in pink and orange. The space had hanging lanterns, an open-air fireplace, terracotta pots brimming with greenery, and bowls of plump oranges – every detail carefully curated.

Lunch was a celebration of the finest local produce. It began with beetroot juice – earthy and bold. A trio of salads followed, brimming with herbs, lentils, and fresh vegetables. For the main course, a delicate mix of lamb and chicken kebabs, served alongside guacamole and a fig, feta, and walnut salad. Dessert was a poached pear, drizzled with honey and accompanied by almonds and creamy ice cream.

Al Fassia Aguedal – a traditional stay

Al Fassia Aguedal, is a welcoming boutique retreat attached to one of the finest traditional restaurants in Marrakesh, run entirely by a team of remarkable women.

The hotel comprises two charming riads with 26 rooms and suites, all with a Moorish flair, arranged around a peaceful central courtyard. The grounds are dressed in a riot of Bougainvillaea; vivid reds, violets, oranges, and white that climb gracefully across walls and balconies.

Outdoors, a generously sized swimming pool offers a rare luxury in a Marrakesh riad. I particularly appreciated the thoughtful touches: plush loungers, soft pool towels, cushions, individual lunch tables, Al Fassia straw hats for sunny days, and a personal poolside lunch service.

The rooms themselves are beautiful with grand four-poster beds and stained glass windows that paint the space with dappled light. Sunrise was nothing short of magical; hues of gold, tangerine, and rose stretched across the sky, while birdsong formed a symphony unlike any I’d ever heard.

With the restaurant just steps away, mealtimes were a highlight of our stay. What made them even more memorable was the radiant hospitality of Youseff, whose morning smile could rival the sunrise. Every breakfast was a delight: fresh fruit, local bread with honey, omelette, creamy yoghurt, and Moroccan specialities like shakshuka.

In the evening, the dining room transformed into a jewel box of elegance and tradition. Red velvet chairs grounded the space in luxury, while sumptuous Moroccan fabrics and arabesque silhouettes conjured the spirit of ancient palaces. I recommend starting with the vibrant salad platter, featuring around twelve perfectly spiced miniature dishes to engage the appetite before moving on to a classic tagine for your main course.

Riad Be – a bohemian retreat

We visited Riad BE for an organised cooking lesson. The riad has a bohemian, trendy atmosphere. The top floor features a spacious roof garden with lounge beds, hanging chairs, rest areas, and yoga mats. The middle floor has a plunge pool with bright yellow loungers and rooms.

The lesson began with a trip to the Medina to purchase fresh ingredients from the farmer’s stalls, where I found myself, deciding on which poor chicken should meet its fate! We then selected our lamb and vegetables and then visited the Moroccan man flipping thin, pastry sheets in the air, which would be for our spring roll starter. He must make thousands in a day!

We then took the food back to the Riad’s rooftop, where, with help from Maleekah (meaning queen in Arabic), we cooked tagines and a vegetable spring roll starter. It was a fun afternoon learning how to cook a traditional recipe. At the same time, a pair of resident tortoises took a shine to nibbling my feet; their nips are sharp! Lucky Maleekah tempted the pair away to a tastier option!

For everything to see and do in the city, read the guide to Marrakesh. And for the most extraordinary dining experience the city has to offer, Le Tobsil is not to be missed.