Lisbon is one of the most romantic cities I’ve been fortunate to visit. It is ingrained with a passionate mix of poetry and classical music.
Music creates an alluring and contemplative atmosphere that contrasts with other bustling cities. Around the neighbourhoods, buskers play violins and cellos, playing rich and melodious tones. As you wander up and down the hills of Lisbon, the lilting notes of the violin dance through the summer air, flitting from one ear to the other with playful grace.
Miss Can
Even the bird song in Lisbon is sweet and musical. One of my favourite moments was sitting outside Miss Can on a wooden stool with my back towards the wall, eating tin sardines and drinking port. It was meant to be a quick snack stop, but an Eurasian Blackcap (nicknamed the Northern Nightingale) in the little garden opposite sang a melodious, fluting song that captivated me. One port turned into a few, and the afternoon took a surprising break from the planned exploring – I sat there relaxed and mesmerised by the bird song.
A Brasileiras do Chiado
The city is also rich in literacy. Fernando Pessoa is one of Portugal’s most celebrated poets and writers and is deeply intertwined with the city. As you wander the streets, you feel his presence, which he frequented throughout his life.
Whilst in the Chiado neighbourhood, I visited A Brasileiras do Chiado, the oldest café in Lisbon which dates back to 1905. Here, I was introduced to Fernando Pessoa by his bronze statue, which sits casually among the outdoor diners. A Brasileira do Chiado was a meeting place for intellectual, artistic, and literary discussions. This is where Fernando Pessoa found his inspiration and ideas. Even Fernando’s famous eyeglass is still on display here.
During lunch, I was treated to a busker playing Ludovico Einaudi next to my table. I had visited Lisbon to attend a classical concert, but this random event felt more personal—the busker was very talented, and it made the lunch unforgettable.
Largo de Sao Carlos
Belgian artist Jean-Michel Folon created the bronze sculpture below dedicated to Fernando Pessoa in 2001. In 2008, on the initiative of the Lisbon City Council, it was placed in Largo de Sao Carlos, next to the house where Fernando Pessoa was born, as part of the celebrations of the poet’s 120th birthday.
Bertrand Bookstore – the worlds oldest bookstore
Across the street, you’ll find the world’s oldest bookshop. Bertrand Bookstore was founded in 1732 by two brothers and holds a Guinness World Record. The shop has several vaulted rooms, with a wide range of bestsellers and classics. Most of the books are in Portuguese, but there is a section in English. Here, you can pick up an English copy of The Book of Disquiet by Fernando Pessoa. At the back of the store is a literacy-inspired café. This is a nice spot to relax with a coffee, while you flick through the short paragraphs of Pessoa’s intimate diary and prose poetry or any other books you are tempted to read.
Most of us need a bit of inspiration when we travel, but it’s always good to leave the odd day to wander without a plan. This leaves an opportunity to stumble across less discovered gems in the city. The poem below by Fernando Pessoa reminds me to always plan in the unplanned!
THIS MORNING, EARLY, I WENT OUT
Because I had awakened even earlier
And I had nothing I wanted to do.
I didn’t know which way to go
But the wind was blowing hard
Sweeping along in one direction,
And I went off that way, with the wind at my back.
That’s how it has always been in my life,
And that’s the way I want it to be –
I will go where the wind takes me and I
Have no feeling that I am thinking.
Fernando Pessoa
The Carmo Convent
Largo do Carmo, a picturesque square in the Chiado district, is home to the ruins of the Carmo Convent, which was destroyed in the 1755 earthquake. Pessoa lived at number 18 between 1908 and 1912. The convent now houses the Carmo Archaeological Museum, which is worth a visit for its beautiful architecture.
Lisboa Book Fair
If you enjoy reading, Lisbon holds the Lisboa Book Fair annually. It’s usually held in the avenues of the Parque Eduardo VII. The fair will contain a range of modern and antique works. Many authors attend to speak to their fans and autograph books. You can also find out more about other poets and artists like Cesario Verde or Almada Negreiros.
Portas do Sol
You can’t visit Lisbon without a trip to the charming old district, Alfama. Here, you’ll find one of the most breathtaking viewpoints in Lisbon: Portas do Sol. If you are relatively fit, you can burn calories by walking up the many steps or taking the renowned tram 28, an exceptionally scenic route.
Lisbon – in the evening
There are many bars and restaurants you can visit. If you haven’t experienced a traditional fado before, I recommend trying it. We visited one that closely resembled visiting a family home with just a few guests. Once the 8-10 guests were seated, they shut the restaurant and brought out a five-course set meal. Between the meals, local musicians sang traditional music. The food was delicious and the evening provided an authentic experience of Lisbon.
The Coliseu de Lisboa hosts ballet, classical concerts and other events. On a smaller, intimate scale, São Paulo Church hosts classical music concerts weekly. The show features some of Lisbon’s best guitarists, who play a mixture of original compositions, classical arrangements, and iconic classical guitar pieces.
If you want an evening meal steeped in history, I recommend visiting Cervejaria Trindade, which is considered a cultural heritage site in Lisbon. The building was formerly the Convent of the Holy Trinity, founded in 1294 before a brewery was established there. It is considered one of the oldest and most beautiful breweries in Portugal. The building is stunning, and the menu offers a mix of traditional Portuguese cuisine, seafood and steaks.
Whatever you decide to do in Lisbon, it is a fantastic place for writers, thinkers and readers. As a base, Lisbon is a great place for a few days before combining with other local areas that I will feature in an upcoming post.
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